In September, when there was a window of calm in Europe, we had the opportunity to enjoy the vacation Doreen had been planning since February. Unaware of the turmoil that would emerge, Doreen wanted a calm resort driven summer vacation over the city experience. As it turned out, this was exactly the experience we needed and the change of scenery we were craving after being cooped up in Berlin. Logan and I had never been to Greece and Doreen had only experienced the more popular tourist areas so the area was new to all of us. So, we hopped a plane for 12 days of fun in the sun.

Lefkada is the second largest of the seven main Ionian Islands set just off the Western Greek mainland. They’re mentioned in some of the first literature ever written but most famously are the backdrop in Homer’s Odyssey. Greek history goes back to 1200 BCE in this area but humans have been living here since the dawn of time. Today the islands are mostly a tourist destination. Modernization of various industries have driven recent generations to the mainland in search of other opportunities. Lefkada is the most approachable of the seven islands because of the land bridge and the amount of ports. Europeans find it very easy to access the island by plane then car and can freely boat between islands - something the Greek government is encouraging to boost the local travel economy.

Doreen settled on a resort that accommodated us perfectly. Thanks to her connections we had a wonderful suite and Logan even had a little private pool to play in. The views were spectacular and the staff couldn’t have been more inviting and gracious. Meals were prepared with great care and the kindness of the staff was some of the best we had experienced. Except for a few other travelers we had the resort to ourselves.

On our first full day we wandered into the nearest little port town of Nydri to find a boat trip that would suit our curiosity of the surrounding islands. We settled on the perfect tour and spent the rest of the afternoon walking around town before heading back to the hotel and having dinner on the water.

September is at the tail end of the season for the resorts and other tourists activities so we were lucky to find a boat tour that was leaving while we were there. It was the second to last of the season and the final trip would eventually be canceled due to weather later in the week. The following day we boarded the boat with the other passengers for an exciting full day trip around the islands.

The first stretch of the trip took us around Lefkada, down to the base of the island, where there is an ancient lighthouse. As the story goes, a crossed lover threw herself off the cliffs and you can still hear her cries when the swells come in. It’s the Lesbos lighthouse so of course our Greek boat captain and tour guide couldn’t help himself with the corresponding jokes. As we rounded the tip of the island the landscape drastically changed. The cliffs became sharper, with a white granite and marble. This side of Lefkada faces the open sea and is exposed to harsher elements.

Our first stop on the trip was a secluded beach not far up the Western coast. The boat parked long enough to let us all out to explore and enjoy the views. When you think of a Greek vacation this is the picture you have in mind. It was strikingly beautiful and we were lucky to get to experience it.

After about an hour of the beach to ourselves we boarded the boat for our next stop. We needed to cover a good distance so we had some time to take in the open water. The next destination was the largest of the Ionian Islands, Kefalonia. This is another destination point for tourists and the likely home of Odysseus. Modern historians believe that this was his home over Ithaca based on the geographic descriptions from Homer and Hesiod. Odysseus was likely the ruler of many islands in the area, including Ithaca which is right across the channel. The naming and translations over the centuries have bastardized the original text enough to lead historians to believe this is where he ‘launched a 1000 ships.’

The island and village we docked in was beautiful. It was a little port inlet with shops, restaurants, and cafes. We had a light lunch and an ice cream before boarding the boat for our next local.

Ithaca is a small island nestled just North East of Kefalonia. There are still about 1000 people that live on the island and you can take tours of the main village. Our boat stopped at one of the inlets on the backside of the island for a swim. It was an awesome experience. The boat crew extended the gang planks for people to jump in the crystal clear water. Doreen took in some sun on the beach while Logan and I swam around. It was one of the more stunning stops we made.

On the way back to the port at Nydri we stopped at a famous cave, a fun swimming spot that also came with cocktails and aggressive euro techno music, and then we circled around Aristotle Onassis private island, Scorpio (where he married Jackie Kennedy). The family still runs the property and Aristotle is revered in the area. At the port of Nydri there is a massive statue of him.

We concluded the day with dinner at one of the local spots on the port and then went back to the resort to rest and relax for the next adventure.

Our fourth day was spent exploring the town of Lefkada. It’s a little town on the Northern tip of the island which provides bridge access to the mainland. This is where many residents and vacationers come for provisions. The buildings and winding streets are well kept and an interesting mix of architecture from Antiquity through the middle ages and into the modern area. It’s a really interesting mix of ancient with a layer of modern that wouldn’t seem functional but somehow works.

As our fourth day came to a close we would stumble on what would become our new regular dinner spot. Nestled at the end of a cove was a family run restaurant right on the water. The patriarch played the role of Maitre d’, waiter and bartender while his children worked in various parts of the kitchen supporting his mother and aunt who made the delicious food. Each night the menu was slightly different based on the available ingredients of the day. We would watch the sun set as dinner came to an end and the cove became still. We got to know the family pretty well as we were often one of the only families there. Logan loved the stray cats and was naming them by the time our trip came to an end. We’ll always remember that little restaurant by the water.

Midway through our trip the weather turned and the rain came in with a force. We would find out days later that we were a part of a Mediterranean cyclone named Lanos that traveled over the islands at 120km/hr (75 mph). We used the time to hang out at the resort and enjoy some downtime. Soon we started to get antsy so we decided to venture up the mountain and explore an old Greek Orthodox Monastery named Panagia Faneromeni.

The monastery was built in 1634 by disciples of the Apostle Paul and renovated in the 19th century after a fire. It sits on top of a hill on the North Eastern part of the island. Contained within the monastery are a plethora of treasures and manuscripts from the early Byzantine era. These artifacts and original gospel manuscripts were from the earliest Christians. In the beginning days of Christianity the disciples were writing and preaching to the Greeks and much of what is contained in Faneromeni is from that era. It was a powerful experience to be present with that part of history and to see that those traditions are alive and well all these centuries later.

We chilled at the resort and even did some swimming in the rain for the rest of the day in hopes that the storm would clear.

A little more than a day later the sun was back out and we were ready to see more of the island. We jumped in the car and headed South to a little town we had sailed past days before on our boat trip. Vasiliki is a small village on the South Eastern coast about 3/4 of the way down the island. It’s got a good size port for various sizes of ships and yachts. The town is mostly small shops and eateries. Surrounding the village is a bunch of beautiful vacation homes. We took in the views and then the shops before sitting down in the bay for a drink and ice cream.

Our last few days were spent experiencing the beach scene. In a normal travel season these places would be over crowded and blasting European techno music. However, thanks to Covid, the scene was a lot more tame and more our speed.

We did some research and found a club on the West coast that looked like a great option. European beaches aren’t like American beaches. You almost always need to rent a space for the day. The service comes with an attendant who will gladly provide you with food and drinks along with a locker to keep your valuables while you take a dip in the water. Most of the clubs in Lefkada also had a complimentary pool and restaurant set back from the beach. The beach club experience was a lot of fun and provided a wonderful opportunity to relax and enjoy the Ionian Sea.

On our final day we got to celebrate one of the most special days of the year, Logan’s birthday. Logan and Doreen wanted to go back to Lefkada to get some treats at the local bakeries as well as some local foods to take back with us. Doreen decorated the suite the night before and had brought candles in preparation for the big day. Some of my most memorable birthday experiences are the ones I got to spend in exotic locales so hopefully Logan will never forget turning 6 on a little island in the Ionian Sea.

Back in February we thought we knew what to expect from a casual beach vacation in Greece. What we didn’t expect was just how much we would appreciate getting away from all the craziness the next months would bring. We were lucky that we even got to take the trip. A lot of our friends had to cancel trips that they still don’t know when they will be able to recoup.

In the past few years Greece has been in the news a lot. Mostly as a cautionary financial tale meant to be an example for the rest of the EU. The truth is always more complicated then the headline. The people we met couldn’t have been more gracious and hard working. The Greeks are understandably a proud people that are experiencing another massive economic sea change. They have been in this position before and will continue to find a path forward as they have since the days of Odysseus.

When we got back to Berlin I read an article that focussed on the Greek government’s new plan to attract and entice remote workers to buy property and work from Greece. The program was already a success just a month later and they are opening it up to more people. Like many generations that came before they are finding a way. In the coming years I can see a new generation moving to the islands. The economy will undoubtably be different but the traditions will likely remain the same as they have for centuries. The world might be a better place if every culture was as adaptable as the Greeks.

Until Next Time,

The McNeills

Photos Shot On Film